Review: Carbon Steel Pan - Matfer Bourgeat 11 7/8-Inch

Non-Stick pans have been the rage for home cooks for a long time, but they don't last and they should not be used on high heat.  The chemicals are either coming off as a dangerous gas or flaking off in our food when we use them too long.  They can't handle metal utensils but a good one let's a egg slide right out.  When our Pampered Chef non-stick pans wore out I went looking for the new and improved versions which solve the previous issues and while there are some improvements the same issues still exist.  What do the pros use?  The answer is Carbon Steel.

A carbon steel pan is similar to a cast iron pan but 1/2 the weight and much smoother so when it's seasoned it becomes non-stick, or so they say.  But they are also about the cheapest pan you can buy.  From a restaurant supply site you can get them under $10.  They heat evenly, can handle high heat, oven baking, and are possibly the best pan to sear a steak.

I picked America's Test Kitchen #1 rated 12" carbon steel fry pan made in France - Matfer Bourgeat 11 7/8-Inch for $37

It was heavier than I expected.  A cast iron pan this size is 7lbs and this is only 3, but holding 3lbs on the end of a long stick is not as easy as it sounds.  That said it way way easier to manage one handed than a cast iron pan.  I like the lack of rivets which always catch food and become a pain to clean.  The pan has a very smooth finish, though it looks a bit rustic with it's welds and rough looking edges.

The downside of cast iron or carbon steel is the prep and maintenance.  You must never use a dishwasher, or soap beyond the initial cleaning and you need to season the pan before use and perhaps occasionally refresh it.  I'm willing to put in the work if it is everything they claim it is.

This brand has one of the most bizarre seasoning rituals I've ever heard of but America's test kitchen and others have said it's the best way.  You put 1/3 cup of sunflower oil, 2/3 cup of salt, and 2 potato skins in the pan and sauté that mess for 15 mins. The last 2 minutes will fill your house with smoke, but as you can see from the pictures the result is amazing.

It's a beautiful color but is it really non-stick?  The answer is a resounding YES.  In fact, it is the most non-stick pan I've ever used.  That chicken appeared to be stuck to the pan and yet barely touching it caused it to slide across the pan.  As you can see it left a nice sear on the chicken too.

However, I had the heat too high and as I cooked the 2nd batch of chicken I noticed the remnants, fond, left  in the pan started to burn.  That should have been my clue to turn down the heat, but I pressed on removing the burnt bits and deglazed the pan with broth for my sauce.  The broth immediately turned to steam, clue 2 it was too hot, and as I stirred the sauce I noticed more than fond was coming off.  In the end much of the seasoning on the pan appears to be gone.  

Is it still non-stick?  Do I need to re-season it?  From what I've read it may be just fine and the seasoning and color will build up with continued use.  I'll report back once I use it again.

My over all conclusion:  I love the idea, the pan seems like a good one, and I'm excited to keep using it and experimenting with it.  I need to up my game, but that's really the point isn't it?

UPDATE (2/26/2020): My second use was cooking Smash Burgers as a test to see if the pan was still seasoned and still non-stick.  The result was great.  It was perfect, the burger got a great crust and none stuck to the pan.  I'm happy to say the color does not indicate the effectiveness of the seasoning.  I plan to continue using it and will report back any issues.

UPDATE (3/3/2020): Third use was sautéed onion and prosciutto. It was initially like a non-stick pan but as the meat started browning a nice fond began forming on the bottom of the pan. Note how amazing that crust looks. I really should have deglazed it and made a sauce. I was afraid it would be tough to remove but a little water and nylon scraper is all it took and it came right off. So far so good.